The population numbers for the Cook Islands vary depending on who you ask. The most common estimates tend to be between 15,000 and 22,000 people, spread out over the 15 islands. Some islands have a population of zero to just a few people, while others hover between 250 and 750 inhabitants. Rarotonga is by far the most populous island with about 12,000 inhabitants.
The food here is generally delicious and you can find all types of things. My favourite dish is ika mata. Ika mata is a ceviche-style dish made of fish cured in citrus juice, coconut milk, chili, and other garnishes. It is often served with a side of sweet potato or cassava.
Today, I decide to get some ika mata at the local market before setting out on the country’s most well-known hike: the Cross-Island Trek. The journey across the island is not as simple as the trip around the island. That’s because Rarotonga is a volcanic island and there is no vehicular road across the peaks. The only way is to go through the dense tropical forests, crossing streams and some farm land. Some people suggest to go with a guide because the trails are not well marked and it’s easy to get lost. I decide to chance it on my own.
After a couple hours of hiking and only a few wrong turns, I eventually find my way on the path approaching what is unquestionably the highlight on the “cross-island trek” for me: the “Needle.” At an elevation of over 400 meters, it feels like you can see all of Raro (including the stunning beaches that awaited my sweaty self for after the hike).
The steep grind down has plenty of ropes to assist with the descent. Luckily, the only damage seems to be a few mosquito bites.
The next day, my host Niki and I decide to go to the evening night market for some dinner. There are many food options and I want to eat all of them! After deciding on the roast lamb dinner, I find Nikki at one of the tables with some of her friends. She introduces me to a middle-aged man who is a principal at one of the schools. He tells me a bit about the decision to move back here with his family after years in Australia and shares a little about his job. I take interest in this story and ask him for more details. He tells me how hard it can be to recruit teachers here. Not only are the salaries comparatively low to New Zealand and Australia, but it is often hard for spouses to find work here and be away from family. Even native Cook Islanders who would be qualified to teach here often leave for more cosmopolitan lives elsewhere. He is excited, however, about a potential new recruit. Some teacher from New Zealand who is very much into marine biology and will be able to teach kids by taking them out in to the local waters. As a huge bonus, the new teacher even speaks some Maori. This conversation makes me think about all the teachers I had growing up in major centres in Canada. I feel lucky (well, for most of them).
Since I have now been here for a handful of days, I start to consider whether I should take a side trip to one of the other more remote and less-populated islands. Only one of them can be reached with relative ease (Aitutaki), but the day trip seems overly touristy and over-night stays are mostly cost prohibitive. While it does seem beautiful, I am more than satisfied with my life here for the moment. When I wake up, Nikki has some fruit ready for me to eat- watermelon, soursop from her friend’s garden, or pineapple from her neighbour’s garden. If that isn’t enough, I can walk around to all the fruit trees on the property and pick what I want (bananas, pomelos, pomegranates, papayas (which they call paw paws), among a few other options). Then I grab the bike (they call it a push bike or a “pushie”) and ride for a minute to the ocean where I can snorkel to my heart’s content, before taking a break for lunch. The afternoons are for more discovery, pictures, or reading. And so, I decide to spend my last couple of days in the Cooks here on Raro.
Impermanent Establishments 