Now back on the South Island, my trip has only way to go from here: North. I’m in a town called Bluff, the (almost) southernmost part of the South Island. From here, my plan is to get to Cape Reinga, the northernmost part of the North Island and a spiritually significant place for the Maori. I’ve broken the journey up in to two posts and gone listicle. This post covers my journey on the South Island
1. Bluff Oysters
Bluff is the one of the southernmost points of the South Island. Apparently there is another place that’s 20 odd kms farther south in the Catlins, but I think it’s all a bit technical at this point.
Bluff is known all over New Zealand for oysters. There is an annual oyster festival (which I will be missing by a few weeks) and tickets sell out well in advance. Luckily, it is peak oyster season now, so making a stop at an oyster stand is a must for before I continue north…Ok fine, so I stopped for oysters twice.
If you’re in North America and wanting to go to an oyster festival that isn’t as far away, check out Tyne Valley, PEI. I went to their oyster festival a few years back and it was an amazing time.
For now though, enjoy some oyster pics of Bluff oysters instead:
2. Tuataras in Invercargill
I had no idea what a tuatara even was, until I got to the South Island. Upon learning that the species are believed to be over 200 million years old, and that individual tuatara can live to between 100 and 200 years, I knew I’d have to see them in person.
3. Penguins and the Catlins
After leaving Invercargill, I took the “long road” to Dunedin. This route meant driving through the Catlins, which is an often overshadowed part of the South Island. Even in the rain, the scenery was fantastic and the highlight for me was making it to a penguin lookout just in time at sunset to see a colony of yellow-eyed penguins coming back home from the sea. Unfortunately, it was hard to get some good pictures of this magical moment so you’ll have to settle for these shots instead (including their Niagara Falls):
4. Tunnel Beach
The coastline right before Dunedin was one of my favourite places on this part of the trip. A steep hike, down some grand cliffs, leads to a tunnelled staircase carved through a stone cliff. Go through the dark unknown and a paradisaical beach awaits.
5. Dunedin
Dunedin is New Zealand’s ultimate college town and, fittingly, home to one of New Zealand’s most well-known breweries: Speights. It is also home to Baldwin street, in the Guinness Book of Records for being the steepest residential street in the world. For all you Harry Potter fans out there, I happened to stay at a hostel named (and themed after) Hogwartz.
6. Motueka Boulders
Some cool boulders.
7. Banks Peninsula
The drive up the East Coast provides several photo opportunities. The highlight for me is Banks Peninsula, a volcanic peninsula that has vein-like bodies of water running inland from the sea.
8. Christchurch
Christchurch is the most populous city on the South Island. When you say “Christchurch” in New Zealand, many people’s thoughts instantly turn to the earthquakes that devastated this city in 2010/2011. The physical destruction is still evident throughout the city. One of the more surreal parts of my trip was driving through parts of the suburbs that were seriously damaged and haven’t been rebuilt (for seemingly sound engineering reasons). Imagine entire neighbourhoods, with roads, signs, and even driveways, pretty much everything except for people and houses, because these areas were deemed to be unsafe places to rebuild. It’s bone chilling.
People continue to face the effects of the earthquakes personally too. I met one lady who told me she was very envious of my travels because she herself could no longer travel. A set of drawers came crashing down on her during the 2011 earthquake and left most of her left leg permanently damaged.
Among this devastation, however, there is also a unique silver lining. The earthquake forced neighbours to band together: some people lost their kitchens, some lost access to their bathrooms, and some lost their entire houses. Neighbours helped each other and, through that period, they bonded. To this day, and, unlike any other “big city” I have been to in this world, Christchurch still had a village-like feel. Neighbours seem to genuinely know each other, which I think may be related to this post-earthquake period.
As an added bright spot, where once there were buildings which had been destroyed in the earthquakes, there was now a visible commitment to public art. Some of the art served as a reminder of the devastation in the past, other pieces a manifestation of hope for the future, and yet other pieces provided some eye-catching landmarks for the present.
Among all the friendly people I’ve met in New Zealand, some of the closest friends I have made are right here in Christchurch. One in particular, Martin, let me stay at his place while I was in Christchurch. Having my own room again was a nice change from the hostels, and best of all Martin has an amazing home (with a great fireplace for evening chats) and he is a chef- so I ate like a king.
Finally, my trip to Christchurch also included a visit to the International Antarctic Discovery Centre, which is pretty much like going to Antarctica right? (or at least as close as I’ll get for now…)
9. Hanmer Springs
Hanmer springs is a town known for its thermal waters. There are some thermal pools in town with different mineral content and varying temperatures- making for a most relaxing stop for the night before continuing on.
From here, I would have gone to Kaikoura. However, the most recent earthquake in November 2016 had a devastating impact in the region and the main highway is still inaccessible. Kaikoura is supposed to be a beautiful part of the country, and home to much marine life. For many visitors to New Zealand, it stands out as a top highlight. For me though, I’ll have to save Kaikoura for another time.
10. Vineyards
Having to miss Kaikura isn’t so bad when you’re replacing it with New Zealand wine. My final stop on the South Island was in New Zealand’s Marlborough region, known globally for its excellent sauvignon blanc varietal.
Part II of my trip heading north will be in my next post- stay tuned.
Impermanent Establishments 